The Chevelle came with the stock hood (in excellent condition) and a brand new Goodmark Cowl hood (minus the actual cowl induction opening). So, of course I opt to install the cowl hood because it looks mean. The problem is that the edge near the drivers window wasn't rolled correctly from Goodmark, and it hit the fender BIG TIME!. If it was my purchase, I would have sent it back, but since I got it with the car, that isn't an option. After a bit of thought, I decided to cut the side edge with a Dremmel and make a very thin cut that would allow me to beat the edge with my body hammer without distorting the entire top of the hood. My idea actually worked! With a bit of help from the kids to take the hood off, and on, and off, and on, and off and finally on again, we got it pretty damn close.
I finished up most of the rough body work today, including the trunk and door jambs, and even had time to give her an oil change. She still had the break in oil in her, but that wasn't any big deal since we haven't gone anywhere yet but up the driveway. I'll need to sand up the headlight buckets and a few trim pieces, then it's time to block her out and lay down some of that new PPG 2K. I hope that it comes out nice and smooth, because now I'm certain we are going BLACK!
I went to the track last night with the Lawn Dude to watch the wagon run in the "Mean Street" competition. The weather was terrible, hot and muggy, and everyone was running way slow. It didn't really matter that we went out in the first round, we got rained out after the second round anyway.
So, my usual routine of Saturday afternoon sanding and filling was somewhat productive, as you can see from the pics. I'm having some difficulty with the passenger side quarter panel, nothing I did, but trying to clean up the previous body work in the area. I almost have it, I think maybe a little more block sanding could show me the last bit of filler I might need, or if I'm lucky and the guide coat shows me good news, just some more primer filler. Speaking of primer, I ran out of my Dupont 4004 2K, so I picked up some PPG (they were out of my Dupont 2K) at a whopping $79 for a qt w/activator! DAMN! I hope that it works well and covers a lot, because I am out of $$$ and still need to get basecoat and clear.
I wasted about an hour looking for some pics online of just how the window molding clips go on. After I couldn't find any, I just took a clip to the car and figured it out myself. It can only go one way, so I really felt like an idiot, and should have just done that first. Probably been breathing too many paint fumes to think clearly.
I took Nancy and the kids out for a ride this past weekend in the Vette (um, that's three separate rides of course) and we almost had a head-on with a new Camaro. That would have really been a shame! Did you know that Chevy dealers already have 25,000 orders for the Camaro, making it the hottest car GM has rolled out in years.
On Monday, I decided to get busy on some bodywork, so I started sanding, filling and priming the worst spots. I made a lot of progress, and have Tommy to thank for bringing over the Quickshade tent and keeping me working in the shade. I was even so bold as to spray a little 2K with the mini-gun while in the driveway. Where are the photos you ask? Good question, I am going to fire our SHC staff photographer first chance I get. Damn....I just got fired.
I finished the last of the metal work today, at least I hope so. I started by removing the kick panels, and that took me almost an hour. What a pain it was to get the drivers side out. I had to remove the parking brake assembly just to get enough clearance. After that, the drivers floor panel was installed...again no pic, sorry.
I was going to try to check out the starting of the Bullrun Rally. The official start line for the rally is in the meatpacking district of Manhattan, New York... 9th Avenue between little West 12th Street and 14th Street. Click the image to go to the site.
I finished the other corner of the rear window channel this morning, the drivers side lower. It didn't take long at all, and I of course forgot to take a pic.
I figured that I would start on the floor pans, so I removed the rest of the interior to get a better look. The passenger rear floor was not too bad, just a few small holes, so I didn't use the entire pan. I know, I know, the resto-purist are cringing at the hack job, but the rest of the floor, and bracing, and belt/seat mounts etc were OK, and I have to get this done. After all, this is going to be a driver, not a show car. Besides, I can use the leftover piece from the passenger rear to fix the passenger front ('cause I didn't buy that one). Someone tried to patch the passenger front with fiberglass, and when I picked it off today, man - what a rusty, holey mess that is. I don't know if I'll post a pic of my welded floors when I'm done, after all they are going to be under the carpet/car!
I was busy on Friday and Saturday playing with my lathe (I got to remember to take a photo of it) that my pal Jason and his dad gave to me. I cut the belt to separate it from the motor and get it home, and once home realized I need to pull the main assembly completely apart to install a new belt. Not too smart. At least now I know how the entire thing works, because I field stripped and rebuilt it.
I also installed the anti-theft system, which I would love to discuss in detail...however it is probably best to say that I feel pretty secure that no one is going to figure this out. I hope Sarah will!
I finally got around to working on the rear window channel, and decided to tackle the toughest side first. I fabricated up a paper template, transferred it to metal (actually twice, the first was a bit too small) and welded it in. Click here to see the before pic of the hole. I also cleaned all the butyl tape off the glass, and got some major blisters on my fingers in the process. After I do the other side, I can start on the new floor pans, and then I really have to get into the body work.
I transferred the restored brackets to the new pump today, primed it up and now have one-finger power steering. Notice the spacer on the header bolt for the rear pump bracket.
It looks like most of the mechanical systems are good for now, I need to order some floor pans and get started on the body work. I can't believe it is already the middle of June, and if I don't get the body done now, it will have to wait until next year for paint.
I wanted to post this pic of the brakes...just because I like it.
Been busy since my last post. Got the Chevelle running and driving. I had to work pretty hard to bleed the brakes, but eventually got there. The timing was a little tricky, but now that I re-learned the art of ignition timing, I left a few burnouts in the driveway.
The power steering has been leaking from the front seal and flinging all over the place, took me a few days to figure that out. So today I pulled the pump apart, and painted all the brakets, and am getting a new pump tomorrow. All I could find was my phone, so that's why the picture is so crappy, but you get the idea. Tomorrow I'll install the new pump, and torque everything up. I also made a nice little bracket for the rear of the pump where it bolts to the head/header, so no more loose power steering brackets!
Today I got a much needed break in the weather, and went outside to start the Chevelle for the first time. All I needed to do was throw some gas in, the battery and cables, and fire it up. Ok, I'll skip the little part about me having the distributor in 180 degrees the wrong way, because I pretty much new that after it didn't fire right up. I used the hand siphon pump to pull the fuel up to the filter, and had Jimmy help me hit the key while I set the timing. It really was a mouse motor....complete with acorns, a nest and even a little mummified mouse that a came shooting out the pasenger side tailpipe like a shotgun blast when it first fired up!
As I was breaking in the cam, and had the motor purring along at 2500 rpm, all of a sudden it dropped down to almost 1000 rpm and run like crap. I shut it off, thinking maybe I accidentially bumped the distributor and knocked the timing out of wack. After checking everything from scratch again, I found out my brand new Jegs distributor vacuum advance was broken. I tried one from Jimmy, but his was broken too. So I pulled the unit off the 283, installed it and was back in business. I called Jegs, they better send a new one!
The electric fan kicked in when it should have, and although the carb float was a little stuck at first, it all seemed to work out just fine. Tomorrow I should be able to bleed the brakes and throw it in gear, see if I can move around the driveway a bit.
I'm getting close to starting the Chevelle. I have had a few personal issues that have taken me away from working on it, but here and there I managed to get the powertrain just about there. I had to order a few parts; I broke a foot of the electric fan mount - had to order a new one for $3 off eBay. I found out the battery tray was not for the correct car, so I had to order a new one. I needed the speed nuts for the fender extensions - after I spent many hours trying to adjust the front end sheetmetal to fit.
I added the coolant to the engine, installed the trans cooler, fixed most of the wiring and just need gas and battery cables. If my parts come in this week, I'll be ready to fire it up!
I finally finished putting the brake components in, the master cylinder, proportioning block, calipers and lines. Then I started to mock up the front end with all the new Goodmark sheetmetal that's been taking up all my free space in the garage. WOW, you should see the pile of cardboard I threw out tonight, and all the room I have in the shop now! I had to work the front edge of the right fender a bit with the body hammer and dolly, and it looks like the rear edge of the hood will need a bit of the same. I shimmed up the same fender a bit and adjusted the fender/door/hood edge to a barely acceptable starting point. Even though I hear how good the ne
w fender and hood are, I can tell that it is going to take a lot of work to get this looking right.
I found that the new electric fan will mount up using the stock holes in the upper radiator mount, all I have to do is fabricate a lower bracket. I also have to finish wiring up the fan and relay, all I have so far is the temp sender in the head.
It's been raining ALL WEEK, with hardly a break to go outside and get something done. I did manage to spend a few minutes Saturday morning to prime the oil system, set the engine to TDC and install the distributor, wires and plugs. I also stopped at Inman Auto and picked up a bit of seam sealer strip caulk for the heater box, and the power steering fluid. I fabricated up a quick plastic coupling for the electric drill out of some PVC and used it to prime the power steering pump as I added the fluid. It seemed to work pretty good!
I plugged up the hole on the firewall with a rubber grommet and a little seam sealer, and removed the front seat and carpet. I also pulled the rubber mat out from underneath the carpet....that's going to the trash.
The next thing I need to do is finish installing the brakes by bench bleeding the master cylinder and attach the lines. After that, I can install the rear shocks, radiator hoses, front sheet metal and start it! Oh, wait, I still need a battery and cables yet! Damn.......
It was raining this morning, so I figured I'd order some shocks online and take it easy, but by noon the sun came out and I was working on the wiring. I removed the external regulator, and all the TCS wiring and switches, because I don't have most of it anyway. I took the extra time and soldered my connections and even shrink wrapped and taped everything real nice. I also finished connecting the vacuum hoses for the distributor, trans and PCV.
Then I pulled the heater box cover, tested the fan and checked the heater core for leaks. Everything works great! I thought I needed to order the seal for the box cover, but I learned I just needed to use some seam sealer on the firewall and box cover.
I installed the radiator support, and test fit the radiator. Just for fun, I threw on the fender to see what it looked like. The front sits pretty high, a bit over 29 inches from the ground to the wheel opening. Looks like I'll be cutting those springs, but after the car is running I think. I also need to remember to pick up R45TS spark plugs and power steering fluid for the pump I finally remembered to hook up today.
Got $15 million to spare? The 1965 Shelby Daytona Cobra Coupe CSX2601 is about to be auctioned off in Britain, and the auctioneers predict that the original Shelby will sell for more than $15 million– and could possibly unseat the most expensive car in history, the 1961 Ferrari 250 G. If it does top $11 million, the American flagship will be the priciest ride in human history. The month of May is looking to be a historic one, with not one but two cars having the potential to smash record prices at auctions on the very same weekend. A Ferrari 250 TR that will be sold at RM's Maranello auction, and now Mecum has announced the sale of a legendary 1965 Shelby Daytona Cobra Coupe at their 22nd annual Spring Classic auction in Indianapolis. The auction will be shown live on Discovery's HD theatre, with the Daytona Coupe selling at 8:00pm on Friday, May 18. Mecum fully expects the car to exceed the highest amount paid at a public auction for an American automobile, which is, to our knowledge, the Shelby Cobra Super Snake sold at Barrett-Jackson in 2007 for a total of $5.5 million. The auction house even hopes to reach the eight figure mark. The current record holder for any car is a 1961 Ferrari California Spyder that sold for $10.89 million at RM's auction last year. The Daytona Coupe being sold, chassis CSX2601, is the fourth of just six built, winning three of eight FIA races it competed in. One of those victories was at Reims in France that earned the points needed for Shelby to clinch the World Manufacturers Championship in the GT III class. The car has been fully restored to its original condition and sports its Reims livery. Bob Bondurant, who piloted the Daytona Coupe to its wins back in 1965 and also owned it shortly thereafter, was reunited with the car at his high performance driving school in Chandler, AZ this weekend. He was joined by Peter Brock, who designed the Coupe, and the two shared stories of the development and racing of the car. Afterwards, Bondurant even put the car through its paces on the track, the first time he had driven it in more than twenty years.
Click on the pic below for a nice slideshow.... 
Zach and I installed the rear in the Chevelle this morning, although we almost forgot the rear springs! It was a snap, so then I installed the rear brakes, lines and parking brake cables. While I was at it, I figured the driveshaft needed to go back in. I noticed the front calipers needed paint, so I pulled them and gave them a quick shot with the cast blast.
I pulled the axles today in order to remove the drum brake backing plates. I could have just cut the backing plates off with the sawzall... but where is the fun in that? The "C" clips were a piece of cake. I cleaned up the axles, painted the ends, and wire wheeled the rest of the differential and entire rear frame and suspension. Hopefully tomorrow I"ll get up early and paint it all with POR-15.
The brake assembly was test fit, and looks great. I cant wait to get the rear back in with the new disk.
I saw a quote on a Chevelle site that I liked. "Don't tell me what your going to do, show me what you've done." I should apply that to this blog! Another one I liked was "If it doesn't fit, force it. If it brakes, it probably needed to be replaced anyway." That one is funny, but not so true...at least not for me.
Zach gave me a hand this morning, and we pulled out the rear on the Chevelle in order to prep it up for the rear disk brakes. He said, "Man, I'm gonna be sore tomorrow." It was pretty easy though, just remove the e-brake cables, brake lines, 4 bolts and the shocks.
Speaking of shocks, check out these bad boys....air shocks! The trick zip-tie brake line brackets were NOT my work. We figured out that the rear was probably out of another vehicle, I'll run the numbers when I get a chance. It is a 3.08 posi though! I scrapped off about 3 pounds of dirt from the center section, and then pulled the brakes and backing plates off.
You can see where the previous owner ran out of POR-15, just before the rear on the frame. As soon as I get a chance, I'll finish the frame.
You could say that the Spring 2009 Englishtown swap meet was a sucess! I was able to accomplish much with very little cash, and even had time to throw it all on the car. The weather this weekend has been great (so far), and I ran down to Raceway Park with Jimmy on Friday to pick up all I could on my list....some chrome, an alternator bracket, Cast Blast paint, an electric fan, hoses etc. Unfortunately, Ausley's Chevelle parts sold me a big block alternator spacer, so I had to return on Saturday morning and get my $$$ back. It was a good thing though, because I found the correct part used for only $2, and then also found the transmission linkage spring I needed for $5 (including the arm, which I don't need). That's the best part about the swap meet....sorting through boxes and tarps of strewn old rusty, greasy parts, looking for that impossible to buy new item. Then trying to get it away from the seller without paying a fortune for that piece of "unobtainium".
Tom, Tom L. and John all stopped by this afternoon while I was putting some more attention to the trans lines and water pump brackets. Tom L. offered me some interior pieces, because his '72 is going from green to black on the interior. Thanks Tom! I haven't really given much thought to the interior, other than removing the stereo & auxiliary heater, and making sure my throttle and brake pedals are working properly.
The throttle cable and return spring required a bit of fabrication and modification to the brackets and air cleaner base, nothing that an hour with the cut off wheel, vice and hammer couldn't handle. I also cut down the water pump pulley bolts, as we now don't need the spacer or flex fan. Most of the engine is ready, with the exception of the wiring, distributor, hoses and radiator. We will see how things go tomorrow.
The engine and trans were installed today in the Chevelle. Tommy, Jimmy and Tommy L. (also a Chevelle owner) all stopped by to lend a hand. With the front clip removed, it was VERY easy to slide it all in and bolt it up. I also cleaned up and painted the trans cross member, and replaced a bunch of incorrect hardware with the right stuff.
While we were at it, I took the 283 off the engine stand, put it on the small engine dolly, and tucked it away in the corner of the garage for another project. I welded some nuts to the engine hoist for the bolts used for the load-leveler, and a tab to the upright frame to hold the jack handle. None of that work was pretty enough to photograph. Then the hoist and engine stand were broken down and put away.
I hope to button up most of the engine tomorrow...intake, water pump, starter, headers and accessories. After that, I can start taking the rear end out to prep it for the new disk brakes.
I installed the brake booster and prepped the front lines yesterday. All easy stuff, except the return spring under the dash for the brake pedal....what a pain that was! It probably took me 30-40 minutes, so I figured while I was under there, I'd remove the stereo and auxiliary heater. The new aluminum radiator came in, and it looks great!
I also removed the trunk battery cables and started cleaning up the wiring mess. I noticed that the yellow wire running to the "R" post on the starter was still hooked to the ignition circuit, although it was burned to a crisp and exposed nearly the entire length! You don't need that with HEI ignition! I also don't know why the external voltage regulator is still there, as the previous owner had a newer alternator installed. I'll run the wire bypass as described here. I don't trust anything from the previous owners, so I'm most likely going to pick up a new alternator this week too.
I think I'm ready to slap the motor and trans together, now that I have all the bolts needed, and slide it in to the car. Once they are in, I car pull the rear end, and finish the brakes.
Today I finished tearing off the old drum brakes, and installed the new disk brakes. Mr. King stopped by and provided some welcome company as I bolted on the new system, and was surprised on how nice the brake kit was. It took three hours to casually do the first side, and about an hour to do the second. Despite what the instructions say, it is much easier to break down the old drum brakes and remove the steering arms while they are on the car. I'll start on the power booster and master cylinder next while waiting for the brake lines to arrive.
I even had enough time today to paint the engine block Chevy Orange.
I found some videos on the web for disk brake conversions for the front here, and the rear. They are not the exact same kits as mine, but close enough.
Check out that rotor! I've got three more where that came from, and have started tearing down the old drum brakes to install the new drilled/slotted disk system. The master cylinder and all the from line have been taken off, as well as the proportioning valve. I greased the new inner and outer bearings, installed the seals, and test fit everything to make sure I wouldn't have any problems. So far it all looks good.... I'm just waiting for the new brake line kit.
Now what's wrong with this picture? The fan that the previous owner had installed, was backwards. Combined with the tiny single core, six cylinder radiator, this car had to overheat....or at least run very hot. 
Tommy made some changes to the wagon: a little more fuel pressure, a little more spark advance, a little more spring in the rear and a new shifter... and got himself a new low e.t 11.14 @118.60. Nice job pal! He even had enough time to take this in-car shot of the track as he was waiting to race.
I haven't had the opportunity to get to the track yet with the "Wagon-Dude", or to work on the Chevelle much. I've been finishing up the shed and the home security system, and in the little free time, ordering parts like bolts and brackets I need to slide the powertrain into the Chevelle. I cleaned and painted a bunch of bolts, the motor mounts, flexplate, pullys and balancer. As soon as it gets warmer, I'll paint the rest of the engine parts and longblock, and plan to slide it in after that. The only thing I may do first is the brakes...I'm researching that now.
This weekend was finally nice enough to uncover the Chevelle, push it around the driveway, and take some pics. I was really trying to get the Vette out for spin to use up the old gas. I took the kids for a ride around the block, and used it ALL up....I ran out of gas about six blocks from home and needed to get a little help from the neighbors. A couple of nice guys gave me a gallon, and I was able to get the Vette home again.
Take a look at some of these wacky little add-ons that the Chevelle has. I guess this little tan under-dash thingy is a heater...maybe a speaker....who knows?
Another little surprise was the hand-made power junction, due to the battery being relocated to the trunk. I will put the battery back in the engine compartment, and run the wires correctly.The Chevelle also was a carpet delete car, I found the original green, rubber mat under the carpet. I finally checked the gas tank, and the previous owner was kind enough to leave me 11 gallons of old gas....great. After my friend Kelly dropped off a new siphon, and Nancy picked me up a LARGE gas can, I was able to get the gas out and over to Mr. Chris.
In case you haven't seen this yet, I thought I would share. The new Powerblock Magazine online is great....very hi-tech. I hope they keep it up.
I've been busy the past week or two rebuilding the shed in the back yard. Without the storage space, I'll never have any room to work on the Chevelle. Speaking of the Chevelle, I've also been busy trying to find the best disc brake kit for the project. I've been getting lots of help from the Team Chevelle Forum, and might have locked it down to Matt's Classic Bowties. He seems to have a nice kit, but I'm still researching.
Tommy and I will be checking out the Atlantic City Car Show and Auction this weekend, February 26-March 1. That should really put me in gear, so I have to finish the shed soon!
I must be out of my mind, but I contemplating ordering South Hill Customs T shirts. I found this site at CustomInk.com that had some great design features. Of course I'll have to order a few for my closest friends and loyal readers!!! I created a few designs, like the one below...tell me what you think.
The Chevelle came with the stock hood (in excellent condition) and a brand new Goodmark Cowl hood (minus the actual cowl induction opening). So, of course I opt to install the cowl hood because it looks mean. The problem is that the edge near the drivers window wasn't rolled correctly from Goodmark, and it hit the fender BIG TIME!. If it was my purchase, I would have sent it back, but since I got it with the car, that isn't an option. After a bit of thought, I decided to cut the side edge with a Dremmel and make a very thin cut that would allow me to beat the edge with my body hammer without distorting the entire top of the hood. My idea actually worked! With a bit of help from the kids to take the hood off, and on, and off, and on, and off and finally on again, we got it pretty damn close.
Second pass was nice .038 1.66 60ft. 11.42 @117.73 Third pass .108 
